Marques'Almeida Spring/Summer 2015 At London Collections: Men
The young Portuguese design duo who scored a spot in Lulu Kennedy’s Fashion East line-up continues to slay with their creative denim pieces—ones that B*Witched would've been all over. Sticking to their signature raw denim, Marques'Almeida's Spring/Summer 2015 is another strong, creative collection, making the most of slouchy silhouettes, proportions, and—you guessed it—indigo dyes.
Having clambered to the top of the London BFC Sorting Office venue, thirsty show-goers are rewarded with a Red Bull bar which they're abusing, unsurprising given the majority of Fashion East's clientele have just passed the legal drinking age. The crowd here is young, peppered with the odd middle-aged gent, but otherwise we're averaging 21 (if that) with models included. It's an urban space, with people meandering around the four presentations going on at once and models switching in and out of their official roles. In fact, it’s nigh on impossible to work out who is a model and who isn’t.
Marques’Almeida's hard-wearing twill fabrication is now their recognizable signature. You could call it repetitive, but looking around here, half the room is dressed head-to-toe in oversized frayed denim, and you realize it’s clever. A trademark. A cult. The Marques’Almeida club only lets in the kids cool enough to pull off billowing baggy jeans, frayed boot-cut trousers, and denim on denim on denim. It certainly works in here. (I look devilishly out of place in my cigarette pants.)
Marques'Almeida's presentation is staged in a desert scene. Three models sit "denimized" on arid rocks and sand with tumbleweed blowing around their flared jeans. A girl sits in a one-shouldered number with a frayed flounce almost drowning her torso. A boy is nearly swamped by his denim-hooded T-shirt, and the other sits comfortably in his long-line T-shirt and elastic-ankled pants. Backstage, we see the other outfits in a compact collection. There’s more of the same aesthetic, but accompanied with a giant swathe of orange fur; elsewhere there is a standout knitted ‘suit’ in bright yellow. A perfect desert uniform, in our opinions.