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Jose 4 Jeremy Scott 
"I got this X Body Y Keith Haring tee at a flea market in Bangkok. It has an all-over print and is signed at the back of the neck. Most of the clothing Keith Haring made was for his pop-up shop brand. I assume X Body Y asked Keith to contribute a design for its collection, so it's pretty rare."
"It's pretty incredible to see an all-over print, cut-and-sew shirt."
"I love this transparent Versace Versus varsity jacket. There is tact twill branding on the back, with a spell-out. This jacket says so much about sportswear, activewear, branding, and competition."
"This is high-end competitive wear. There are incredible mother-of-pearl buttons with the Medusa branding. A perfect example of high and lowbrow juxtaposition."
"Michael Jordan, one of the greatest athletes of all time and one of the greatest Olympic athletes of all time! The Chicago Bulls had such a large impact on my youth: you didn't need to have cable to know who Michael Jordan was, he was a superstar. This is really rad because it has two photo prints on mesh, one on each side, and they're both action shots."
"This is one of the most beloved and iconic Benetton pieces of all time: this rugby sweater had such an influence. When Tommy Hilfiger was cutting his teeth in the design world, he was hired by Coca-Cola to create a sportswear line, and one of the most famous Coca-Cola styles is a rugby sweater that is very similar to this Benetton sweater. Everyone in the hip-hop subculture of the late 80s wore this or wanted to have this sweater. It was really hard to come by, and it was an absolute status symbol. It's really cool to see a brand's name so bold on your chest. This one is made in Italy"
"Polo Ralph Lauren Olympic commemorative scarf from the 1992 games. Ralph sportswear culture is something that has been dominated by men for a long time, but this scarf represents female athletes. It has incredible primary and Olympic colors. It is very delicate, not many of these exist in the world. To see text and pictures of athletes combined is really cool."
"Alaïa is one of the greatest designers of our time, and here he is making women’s sportswear."
"What is really amazing is the way these shorts drape. This is extremely elegant activewear. And the detailing: the perforation is done with extreme precision."
"This is an awesome 90s Gianfranco Ferré floral crop top. There are a lot of rad details including the graphic on the front and the breathable waffle fabric at the back."
"This tonal embroidery in the same color is just awesome."
"There's an unconventional reason as to why these Benetton shorts are so cool. This fabric was from the Benetton linen collection, so these were originlly either pillows or bedsheets—someone made these from their own sheets! There's even a tag, which they've cut from the fabric and sewed on."
"I absolutely love how playful these Lanvin shorts are. Reading all of the text that is made up of little people having a good time just makes me smile! I really love art that has text in it."
"It’s really awesome to see Versace creating activewear. This piece has a very 90s silhouette. It can be layered in so many different ways. I love the branding and text on the elastic band, especially from such a high-end designer."
"I love the Medusa buttons at the back. This is something I can see Maluca or Santigold wearing."
"These shorts are by Nautica. I think Nautica is the unsung hero of sportswear of the 90s. The brand is 30 years old, but what's great is their use of print, which is really forward-thinking in the realm of sportswear." 
"These are probably 20 years old, so the fabric has been washed a number of times—they may have even encountered salt water."
"This is conspicuous consumption: if you're wearing someone's name across your chest, it's like you're part of their team. It's also a style that Escada is not known for."
"I love the use of heavy hardwear and the spell-out. The chenille patch on the terry cloth is really awesome—there's a contrast in texture and I really love that."
"Issey Miyake, one of my all-time favorite designers. A spell-out is rare for this kind of designer. I love it when something is a total status symbol and it just screams, 'I'm wearing a brand' or 'I have enough money to wear this brand' or 'I love this and I'm wearing my heart on my sleeve!'
"This Emporio Armani linen anorak is something I wanna wear every day. It has a very sporty, military silhouette from a designer that really isn't known for this."
"It’s really nice to see such a strong design, rendered in only two colors and negative space." Gilian Tozer: How long have you been collecting vintage?
Brian Procell: Professionally, for 8 years now but I’ve always been into clothing. I wanted to be a professional painter, so I studied art, but to be an artist you have to be someone of real privilege. It’s a very blue-blooded industry. I like the idea of collecting and selling clothing because you’re still curating, as if you were curating art for galleries. Clothing and design both have slight elements of fine art: there's composition, design, and color theory.
GT: Do you mostly collect sportswear?
BP: Yeah, I’m from Elizabeth, New Jersey and it's super urban. When I was younger you had to fit a certain look: you had to go to school wearing Starter gear or you had to have Jordans. Clothing was just a part of life. My parents were really poor so I was obsessed with clothing mostly because it was out of reach. I would visit all the stores in my area almost everyday and as soon as things went on sale, I would run and tell my mom. You didn’t have any friends and you weren’t anyone if you didn’t set yourself apart with your outfit. So that left a really, really hardcore impression on me.
GT: Totally, the way you dress is an extension of who you are.
BP: For sure. As sportswear and vintage sportswear became attractive to me, the owners of all the sports stores in my area began to retire. They remembered me from when I was younger and I ended up gaining their trust. They allowed me to go into their cellars, storage units or attics and I would buy dead stock or old inventory from that time period. People really seemed to be into what I was doing so I became a private dealer.
GT: What did you first start collecting and selling?
BP: I’m a big hat guy. Just after the millennium, a handful of people were wearing adjustable snapbacks, like Starter hats with the little plastic adjustable straps at the back. It was something that I really loved and was really familiar with ‘cause they were a big deal when I was younger. I saw an opportunity to be the first in New York City to monopolize on this. I bought all of the original left over stock from the mom-and-pop sportswear shops in the tri-state area. I went on mini-road trips, opened up storage units and pretty much hoarded all of these old sportswear hats. At the time, I was friendly with a lot of designers who worked for Supreme and Undefeated and they all seemed to want to reference this type of hat. So they would shop my archives.
GT: How many hats do you think you had?
BP: I have moved hundreds and thousands, and they’ve gone all over the world. I was a big dealer not only in New York but also the West Coast, Japan, Paris, London, and Amsterdam. And caps was just one facet of what I was doing. With one hat someone would ask for a shirt or a pair of shorts, and things just keep building. I became known for being able to study a mood board and later deliver goods relevant to a designer's project. A lot of clothing companies really like my work because it saves their designers a lot of time and, eventually, money.
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FILED UNDER: Brian Procell , adidas Originals x OC , Brian Procell for Opening Ceremony , 10 Greene , OC London , Versace Versus , Keith Haring , Benetton , Polo Ralph Lauren , Azzedine Alaia , Lanvin , Escada , Issey Miyake , Emporio Armani. Ferragamo
